Salt and boil the pasta. Bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil. Salt it generously—your water should taste like the sea. Cook the pasta until just shy of al dente. Scoop out 1 cup of the pasta water before draining.

Warm the oil and bloom the chili. In a wide skillet, heat olive oil over medium. Add the red pepper flakes and let them sizzle for 20–30 seconds to release their flavor. Don’t let them burn or they’ll taste harsh.

Soften the garlic. Add the sliced garlic and cook gently until fragrant and just turning pale gold, about 1 minute. Keep the heat moderate to avoid browning.

Add tomatoes and season. Crush the whole tomatoes by hand or with a spoon as you add them to the pan. Stir in tomato paste if using. Season with salt and a few grinds of black pepper.

Simmer until thick and glossy. Let the sauce bubble on medium-low for 10–15 minutes, stirring occasionally. You want it thick enough to cling to pasta. Taste and adjust heat with more chili, and add a pinch of sugar only if the tomatoes are very sharp.

Marry pasta and sauce. Add the drained pasta to the skillet with a splash of reserved pasta water. Toss over medium heat for 1–2 minutes until the sauce emulsifies and coats the noodles. Add more water as needed for a silky finish.

Finish with herbs and zest. Stir in chopped basil or parsley and a touch of lemon zest if you like. Taste again for salt and heat.

Serve hot. Plate immediately with grated Parmesan or Pecorino if you’re not keeping it vegan. A drizzle of good olive oil on top is a nice final touch.