Prep your ingredients. Dice the pancetta or bacon. Finely grate the cheese. Crack the eggs into a bowl, add the extra yolk, and whisk with the grated cheese and a big pinch of black pepper until thick and paste-like.

Boil the pasta water. Bring a large pot of well-salted water to a boil. You want the water to taste like the sea. Keep a heatproof measuring cup nearby for saving pasta water later.

Render the pork. In a wide skillet over medium heat, cook pancetta or bacon until crisp and the fat has rendered, 6–8 minutes. If using garlic, add it for the last 30 seconds to perfume the fat, then remove and discard so it doesn’t burn.

Cook the tortellini. Add tortellini to the boiling water and cook according to package directions, usually 2–4 minutes. Stir gently to prevent sticking. Before draining, reserve at least 1 cup of starchy pasta water.

Combine pasta and pork. Transfer the drained tortellini directly into the skillet with the pork and its rendered fat. Toss over low heat to coat, about 30 seconds. If the skillet is dry, add a splash of pasta water to loosen.

Temper the egg mixture. Off the heat, add a small ladle (2–3 tablespoons) of hot pasta water to the egg-cheese mixture while whisking constantly to warm it gently. This prevents scrambling.

Create the sauce. Pour the tempered egg-cheese mixture into the skillet with the tortellini. Toss continuously, off the heat, adding warm pasta water a splash at a time until the sauce turns glossy and creamy. It should coat the pasta without pooling. This usually takes 1/3 to 1/2 cup of water.

Season and finish. Taste and add more black pepper and cheese as needed. Salt carefully—pancetta, cheese, and pasta water are already salty. If you like, sprinkle with chopped parsley for freshness.

Serve immediately. Carbonara waits for no one. Plate it hot and pass extra cheese and pepper at the table.